Getting Ready

The first step is to get rid of the old carpet. Start by removing any molding around the floor and remove the entrance door off its hinges, which makes extracting the old carpet and bringing in the new carpet simple. Vacuum the old carpet very well so you are not breathing in a lot of dust, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 18 to 24 inches wide.

Begin pulling the carpet at one end off of the tackless strips and roll it up into sections. In most cases the existing underlay will be worn like the carpet, and full of bacteria, so you are better off getting rid of it as well.

Remove the existing tackless strips and make sure the floor is clean and dry. This is the perfect time to check your subfloor for loose floorboards, and securely fasten those that are loose to avoid them squeaking under the new carpet (use 1 1/2″ screws into the underlying floor joists).

Finally, install the new tackless strips around the perimeter of the room, but not in front of doorways. Leave a 1/2″ space between the strips and the wall, making sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They are named tackless strips because you don’t need to “tack” carpet down.) Make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other at all corners.

Laying the Underpad

Place the underpad in strips that overlap the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each other without overlapping them, then staple the underpad along the inside edge of the tackless strip. Trim the excess underpad along the inside of the tackless strip, using duct tape to seal the seams.

Laying the Carpet

Installing carpet properly begins with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by 4 to 6 inches. The overlay can be trimmed to assure the carpet fits properly. When cutting your first section, measure the room at its longest point and add 6 inches to that measurement. Mark the back of your carpet on each edge of the longest point with that measurement, then join the two marks with a chalk line. Fold the carpet over onto itself and then use a straight edge and a sharp utility knife to cut through the backside of your carpet. Place a piece of scrap board underneath your cutting area to protect the underlying carpet.


If the width of your room calls for another piece of carpet, follow the same process with the second piece, and measure, mark and trim. Make sure your carpet pile runs the same direction for both pieces, and that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall and the first piece by 4 to 6 inches. (Lay out your carpet pieces so the seams will not be in eyeshot, but sometimes that just isn’t possible.)

Where the carpet pieces will join is where you want to overlap the two pieces. Then use a utility knife or a rented seam cutter to cut through both pieces of carpet to ensure matching edges. Next, center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where the carpet pieces join with adhesive side up. Then use the seaming iron to initiate the adhesive. The iron goes on the tape and NOT on top of the carpet. Then you will butt the edges together and seal the seam with a carpet roller, or if you do not have one, a rolling pin will suffice.

Attaching the Carpet

A knee kicker is used to attach the carpet along one edge. This is a solid metal tool about 18″ long with sharp “teeth” that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded “butt” for your knee o press into on the other end. Place the sharp end of the kicker about 3″ from the wall and force your knee onto the padded side to drive the teeth down. This stretches the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab the carpet and hold it firmly in place.

A carpet stretcher, similar to knee kicker, but much longer, will finish the carpet attachment. Place one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet has already been attached and place the other end about 6 inches from the opposite wall. The carpet stretcher has teeth to grip the carpet, so when you push on the activation lever, the carpet is then stretched over the tackless strip near the far wall.

Stretch the carpet over the tackless strips all around the room, and make sure to trim the carpet near the wall with a utility knife or a wall trimmer.

Finishing Up

Use a stair tool to tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tackless strips and the wall. Then, at the doorway, trim the carpet to center the edge under the closed door and then install a door edge strip. Finally, cut any vent openings and install the molding on the baseboards.

You’re done! Take a breather and admire all you have accomplished.

About us: (I will add one page to your website that talks about IDN)

Contact Us

We're not around right now. But you can send us an email and we'll get back to you, asap.

Start typing and press Enter to search